Saturday, 3 October 2015

Chulilla - Enjoying getting roasted

It's been an odd summer, let's face it, it's not been rubbish, but we never got that 3 weeks of high pressure I was hoping for. Feeling the need for a proper baking Jen and I headed to Chulilla (for me, the 3rd time in 12 months!).

Late September was hot, 27 degrees, but thankfully the best climbing is in the full shade, and it made for lovely evenings on the balcony. Certainly made a change from the hard groundfrost back in Feb!

Las Lamentaciones, imposing from the balcony and best avoided in the summer heat!
Let me just say this. Chulilla is freakin' awesome.There's a lot more if you can O/S 7c comfortably, however plenty at 7a & 7b also, and probably the 'best' routes I have ever had the pleasure of climbing. We spent most of the time at Chorreras, which translates along the lines of watercourses... Tufas! and Sector Oasis. Chorerras in particular is an amazing crag, 60m high, covered in streaks and tufas, with over 10 full 40m stamina fest 7a-7b's. There's pretty much no point in stars at this place, it's more a matter of opinion, that was the best route I've ever climbed... no that was!

Wall climbing and hanging tufas high on Chorreras
Full on 40 meter pitches really do make a lot of UK sport look small, and it's daunting at first, but it soon gets less scary, and more fun.

Jen onsighting a monster 40m 6b+/c classic at Sector Oasis
As always, Chulilla was particularly full of interesting people. On the first day we met and climbed with Chris Sharma's 'Schedule Organizer', a chilled American dude called Jeff, and his wife, living in Siurana. A few days later we bumped in to Juan Carlos, a local who loves the climbing livestyle... it was this guy who inspired me to start resoling shoes! He was just as full of banter, crag advice and as encouraging as I remember from my trip with Chavwin last winter. It was great to show him my handywork and also to see his prototype full shoes in action, handmade & they look great.

Finally we bumped in to some Germans, who were great to hang out with, one's from Berlin. More on the to come.

Daniel enjoying the shade of Chorreras
On our rest day we headed over to Charco Azul, an amazing blue gorge which was great for a swim and a chill.....


El Charco Azul, great for a swim (or a DWS slackline, spot the red highline if you can!!)
Chulilla's answer to Chorro's Camino Del Ray.... Calmino Del Jen.
One final thing. We went in the 3rd week of September. Never do this!!! Everything in the whole area is pretty much closed (shops, restaurants, pubs)  3rd & 4th week of Sept. Luckily we were in self catering and got by just about fine! :-)

Here's the ticklist.


Name Grade Style http://cdn.ukc2.com/log/arrowd.gif
Crag name
Los Caminantes (P1) 7b ** Lead RP Chulilla
Sendero luminoso L1 7a+ ** Lead RP Chulilla
Camino de Leche 7a+ Lead RP Chulilla
Pompas finas 7a+ Lead RP Chulilla
Plan Z 7a *** Lead O/S Chulilla
Super furry animal 7a *** Lead O/S Chulilla
Chamarilero 6c+ *** Lead β Chulilla
Que hago jugando... 6c * Lead β Chulilla
Long Jong John 6b+ ** Lead RP Chulilla
Nazgul 6b+ Lead RP Chulilla
Magnetoresistencia 6b+ *** Lead RP Chulilla
Gargola (P1) 6b Lead O/S Chulilla
Los pagafantas 6a+ Lead rpt Chulilla

Monday, 24 August 2015

Zinc Oxide Mountain

Feeling a little under the weather today..... Tip, for best weight loss results take turkey and cooked rice, leave out of the fridge for 24h, then reheat to lukewarm... Just don't expect to climb for a few days! Anyway the silver lining is that it has allowed me to go through & rejuvenate some old 'archives'. Here's a simple video of Jonny 'Stealth' Aylwin cruising the classic Zinc Oxide Mountain Fr7b+ at Portland, 2014.

I've often wondered about the name of this one, what does it mean? Perhaps it's that Zinc Oxide is used in just about everything modern, any ideas?

Enjoy!

HD Video

Monday, 13 April 2015

Sport Climbing Spring - Smashing the Gower

Spring is here. Amidst the wind and rain this glorious high pressure system had stuck itself over the south west and seems to be here to stay. Jenni, Moosey Pattinson and I head to the Gower to check out some of the new and old sports routes which have made this place one of the best (and under rated) sports spots in the UK.

We spent 2 days at Fox Hole, a steep athletic crag on sideways jugs which often require clever body balance to use them wisely.


Panorama & a topo of weekend sends for the incredible Fox Hole
Starting on some of the original lines we warmed up on The Day the Sky Fell In, a brilliant 6b+ reach fest between jugs, amazing, just a shame it's not longer! Following that we moved on to Ducky Lucky, again a short route at 7a+ / V3, but quality steep moves that would hold their quality anywhere.

Long and Powerful moves on Ducky Lucky 7a+*
Patty then made short work the aptly named Power Struggle 7b+**, an original sports line at the Gower, followed by a Simon Rawlinson - recommended 7c link up. Woodie training paid off obviously!

We finished it off with an ascent of the crag classic Joy de Vive 7a***, which tackles a highly improbable 20 degree overhanging wall through the centre of the crag. Well named.

Making the most of the good holds on Joy de Vive, before it gets really steep! 7a***
Tackling the headwall of Joy de Vive
After some beer and a rest at the Llangennith campsite, we fought our way back through the wind and down to the sheltered crag. A quick morning ascent of the deceptively steep Foxy Chicken 7a+**, Joy de Vive 7a*** for Jen, and another 7b link-up for Patty was followed by a run on the very different Marmalade Skies, a tricky but pleasant wall problem at 7a*.

Reachy moves on Joy de Vive

Not all powerful, sometimes technique helps!
Given the glorious weather on Saturday, and near perfect conditions at this sunny and sheltered crag, it does make me wonder why it's not packed this time of year. In fact the only 2 groups we bumped in to were those who are active bolters in the area. With Brean so busy, the quality and quantity of the near-deserted Gower is outstanding. For now it's a secret best kept, and I'm sure planning on making the most of it before the masses move in. See you there.

Spain? Greece? Nope, South Wales. The unlikely looking, steep lines of the Gower leave me wanting more...
This weekend's tick list...
Name Grade Style
Crag name
Marmalade Skies 7a Lead rpt Foxhole Cove
Chicken Licken 6c+ Lead rpt Foxhole Cove
Foxy Chicken 7a+ ** Lead rpt Foxhole Cove
Joy de Viva 7a *** Lead rpt Foxhole Cove
Ducky Lucky 7a+ ** Lead rpt Foxhole Cove
The Day The Sky Fell In 6b+ * Lead O/S Foxhole Cove

Saturday, 4 April 2015

Getting Strong on Worthybrook Woodie

As the last of winter keeps us off the crags, Jon and Jen keep psyched with a 30 year old boombox and 45 degree board! Enjoy!



Tuesday, 24 March 2015

Portland - Escaping Winter

Portland. It's an odd place, and also one one that no matter how many times I visit shocks me, on just how good it is. One of my favourite crags in the country. Following a weekend wall-to-wall sunshine and almost forgetting that winter was over (I actually got too hot at one point), with Tommy Skelhoony, Marsell Jordano, Captain Jonny Stealth, and not least Jenni Climbing, it's about time I put up a short blog about this place.

The classic shot of Blacknor

One of the biggest problems, with Portland and perhaps the reason why I've always had sporadic visits, is logistics. Back in the good ol'days when G-Man Glaister lived in Devon & I was going stir crazy on Uni holidays, we had some great day trips route checking for the Dorest Rockfax. The Mermaid Inn was also open back then, and you could camp in his field for a fiver. It's closure was a big loss as it left the only options as bivvying and camping at crammed campsited the other side of Weymouth for a tenner.

Bygone days, bivvying with Alex Malins
Not to mention being mistaken for Gypos in the Transit

Route Checking with the Rockfax Master
This changed considerably once we found out about Portland Bunkhouse. Perfectly located walking distance from the lighthouse, and all West facing crags (Wallsend, Battleship, Blacknor) it's ugly MoD barbed wire exterior and keep-out signs suggest a darker past. Nowadays the inside is very plush and clean, with a decent fitted kitchen, proper beds and bedsheets, hot showers. Usually full of climbing groups from London or Bristol it's a good & sociable place to stay.

Hardly welcoming

but suits the Beemer style, and very nice inside....
Awesome terrain walking distance from the bunkhouse
I mentioned earlier that the climbing never ceases to amaze. It's sometimes badly bolted, inconsistently graded, usually dusty, flowstone-filled, technique-packed, well featured, pocketed, sustained, full of adventure, and almost always long, and all in all one of the best limestone sheets the UK has to offer.

Total sandbags 'Reve en' something.....
This weekend did not disappoint, repeating a number of the classic lower grade climbs; (Reptile Smile 6a+/6b and Cake Walk 6a, would both hold their own in Spain or Kalymnos), knocking back a project from a few years passed, the uber classic 'Pump Hitler' 7a+/7b, and a steady redpoint of AppleTurnoverload 7a/7a+.

Skelhon flashing the classic Pump Hitler
Everyone else was climbing well too, with an impressive flash of Pump Hitler from Tom Chavwin, a good recovery on redpoint with Jordano ticking his 2nd 7a+ (Appleturnoverload), Jenni cruising the same, and Jonny onsigting some 7b in his stealthy fashion that I never got to see.

I get the feeling this isn't the last trip to Portland for 2015....


Here's a list of all the routes I've sent over the past 9 years at this magical crag!


England's Dreaming 7a+ *** Tom Jordan, Jenni 14-Jun-14 Blacknor North
Pump Hitler 7a+ *** Tom Jordan, Jenni, Tom, Jonny 21-Mar-15 Battleship Back Cliff
Appleturnoverload 7a+ ** Tom Jordan, Jenni, Tom, Jonny 22-Mar-15 Blacknor North
Medusa Falls 7a *** Jonny 08-Jun-09 Blacknor South
Wolfgang Forever 7a ** Jonny 29-Aug-14 Blacknor North
New Saladin 6c ** Jonny 30-Aug-14 The Cuttings
Oblivion is Forever 6c * Jonny 04-Sep-06 Blacknor South
Buoys will be Buoys 6b+ *** Mark Glaister 02-Apr-09 Battleship Back Cliff
Inch Perfect, Inchworm 6b+ ** Tom 06-Jun-09 Battleship Main
Raise the Titanic 6b+ * Mark Glaister 02-Apr-09 Battleship Back Cliff
Carlos Fandango Belay 6b ** Jenni ??/Sep/12 Blacknor Far South
Ocean Drive 6b ** Mark Glaister 29-Mar-09 Blacknor Far South
The Loneliness of the Long Distance Driller 6b ** Mark Glaister 29-Mar-09 Blacknor Far South
Very Sleepy River 6b ** Jonny 29-Aug-14 Blacknor North
Ghetto-Blaster Master 6b * Jenni ??/Sep/12 Blacknor Far South
Reptile Smile 6a+ *** Jenni ??/Sep/12 Blacknor North
Consommé 6a+ ** Tom 07-Jun-09 The Cuttings
Evening Falls 6a+ ** Mark Glaister 02-Apr-09 Battleship Main
Paying It Forward 6a+ ** Mark Glaister 29-Mar-09 Blacknor Far South
Punter's Way 6a+ ** Mark Glaister 29-Mar-09 Blacknor Far South
Aim High, Shoot Low 6a+ * Tom Jordan, Jenni, Tom, Jonny 22-Mar-15 Blacknor North
Escape from the Dwaafee Room 6a ** Mark Glaister 29-Mar-09 Blacknor Far South
Fear's Younger Brother 6a ** Mark Glaister 29-Mar-09 Blacknor Far South
Margaret on the Guillotine 6a ** Tom Jordan, Jenni 15-Jun-14 Battleship Main
Pinch an Inch 6a ** Mark Glaister 02-Apr-09 Battleship Main
Cake Walk 6a * Tom Jordan, Jenni, Tom, Jonny 22-Mar-15 Blacknor North
Crocadilia 6a * Tom Jordan, Jenni, Tom, Jonny 22-Mar-15 Blacknor North
The Sod 5c * Jonny 05-Sep-06 The Cuttings
A Dream of White Porsches 5a * Tom 06-Jun-09 Battleship Back Cliff
It's My Life 5a * Jonny 04-Sep-06 Blacknor South
Skating on Thin Ice 5a * Jenni ??/Sep/12 Blacknor Far South
Do Ixtlan 4c * Jonny 04-Sep-06 Blacknor South
Jasper 4c * Jonny 06-Sep-06 Cheyne Wears Area
Amazonia 4c Jonny 05-Sep-06 The Cuttings
Jody Sunshine 4c Jonny 06-Sep-06 Cheyne Wears Area

Sunday, 15 February 2015

Chulilla, a winter escape

It's been a pretty sunny winter so far, but yearning for something sunnier Jen and I head for something a little (but not much!) warmer. Bring on 3 days climbing in Chulilla. This time we took a slightly classier stay in Restaurant 'El Pozo' where you can sleep and eat, including a bottle of wine and a brilliantly cooked 4 course evening meal for 40 euro. Spot on! 

Massive 48 photo stitch of the Lower Gorge


On to the climbing, well it was actually pretty darn cold! Not that this stopped us, hauling in some good ticks. Jenni Farlopez perhaps being my fave, at 7a+. Gently overhanging 25m stamina ptich with a tough crux on crozzly tufas low down. Class!



Braving the Cold
Embracing? the cold


Logistics are a little tricker than the Costa Blanca crags, as Valencia doesn't have a very good connection to Bristol, but bring on a brand new Fiat 500, a tank of fuel, and all those EU funded roads.... I was very happy to have achieved an average of 98km/h in this little Italian 1.0l beast....





This place is definitely my favourite Winter Hot Rock destination right now; there are so many great, hard lines in the 7n's, and so much unbolted potential. It's going to be massive, and before the secret's out, I'm going to make the most of it..... See you there in Autumn.


Name Grade Style
Annie Hall P1 5a Lead O/S
Aitana 5c Lead O/S
Las lituanas 6b ** Lead O/S
Pim Pam Pons (L1) 7a+ *** Lead RP
Jenni Farlopez (aka Todo por el club) 7a+ Lead RP
Top of the Rock 7a *** Lead RP
Las Profesionales 6b ** Lead O/S
La costra nostra 6b+ ** Lead O/S