South Wales Sport - Dispelling the myth...

South Wales Sport Climbing.... Traditionally when someone mentions a weekend away in South Wales their belayers run for cover; and to be honest they can't be blamed. The area has a reputation for unfriendly locals and burned out cars, routes which are half fallen down, sandbag grades and the lack of a decent guide.

Gilwern in the distance, can the valleys really be that bad?

Even back in the university Opinel days, with Edan's Cardiff HQ on the doorstep of the valleys, we more or less wrote this place off... having watched Tom experience night terrors after trying a '3 star classic' and myself vowing, after a terrible experience at Llanymynech, never to climb on sandstone again.

Acting like a true South Wales L.A.D. Yes, my doughnut!

Things changed however, as Cheddar began to get repetitive, and the opening of some friendly crags such as Tirpentwys. Then 2015 happened, before I knew it Jen and I were living in Monmouth, these 'horrors' had become our local, giving us a chance to explore properly.... and then it finally dawned...

There is a boat load of climbing in South Wales.
Some of it is pants, like, really bad.
Some of it is good.
Some of it is absolutely fantastic. like, really really good.

It's 'just' a case of knowing where to go, and unfortunately current guides don't really help.

Just some of the crags South Wales has to offer

Luckily Mark and Bridget have been up and down like yo-yo's all summer. As well as being exceptionally well housetrained and having a taste for good wine, Mark's 6th sense for a good crag has made our tour of the SW sport much easier.

Shipwreck Cove, freshly bolted

In recent times the Gower has become much more popular, mainly due to the destination articles and bolt funds for Shipwreck Cove (which is now very busy).

However, take a walk off the beaten track and there are handfuls of smaller crags with immaculate and in many cases steep, juggy limestone waiting to be climbed.

Jen crossing through at steep and juggy Foxhole

Fox Hole is a personal favorite, offering ridiculously steep routes on jugs at 7a/+ closely followed by Oxwich which overhung, lacking decent holds and pretty much 100% ferocious.

Patty on the powerful Resin D'Etre - Oxwich

It's also a great place to pass time by the sea, camp, and eat pub food, unlike... er the valleys. I've spent a total of 6 weekends here this year and have loved every day of it. It's really one of the best sport venues in the country.

Mark finishing the Raven 7a+, 30m mega route at Minchin Hole

Aylwin stealthily kicking ass on Red with Rage - Photo taken by Chavwin

Enjoying the sun at Bowen's Parlour - Photo taken by Jordano

Jordano pulling hard on Red River Rock

Same route, different Chav.

The valleys sandstone is a little more complex matter. No two ways about it, some of the routes are shit, and some of the venues are shitholes. Personally, I hate climbing in shit venues, it ruins my day.

However, look past this, and pick carefully, and there are some amazing spots in the sandstone quarries, some of which could even be called picturesque. Sirhowy, Tirpentwys, Navigation, and perhaps even Cwmamam fall in to this category. Look past the the quarry floors and there are plenty of other venues with decent climbing, even if you're not quite 100% with nature, Mountain Ash and Bargoed are good examples of this.

Mwah Mwah Mwah - Sirhowy. Classic 7a Photo taken by Chavwin

The routes take some getting used to, there is almost always some loose rock, you tend to get pumped out of your skull within 5 meters, and an ability to climb 7b+ consistently on sandstone makes you a regional champion (i.e., you will probably fail).

Skelhon getting in to the Welsh spirit - this would bring a drop to Roy's teary eye

However, get past the ego and they style becomes very interesting, powerful with no let up.

Jen making the sandstone look far too easy

Bargoed, a little grotty, but great climbing

Back on the limestone, as well as the Gower there are plenty of smaller crags dotted around the place, with some pretty decent variation.

Nature in the quarries.....

Gilwern, reportedly, offers lovely summer evening climbing - though is one to avoid in mid November (as Chavwin, Jen and I found out the hard way!).

Freezing our tits off at Gilwern ... another Skelhon special

Witches Point is a little like Brean (and probably just as good), Temple Bay offers some traddy routes, and Taffs Well offers some great limestone technical test pieces.

Bridget enjoying Temple Bay

Further west, Wintours and Ban-Y-Gor, offer some great after work pitches. Ban-Y-Gor in particular is absolutely massive, and in a lovely location.  The climbs are hard, expect V4 at 6c, and expect to fall off. They are sometimes dirty. But seek out the gems and it'll be worth it.

Exploring Dinas Rock, and messing around at Wintours. Dave is too big for this crag.

All in all, when I think back of what I've been up to in South Wales in 2015 and previous years, there's been a lot of climbing.

And it's excellent.

Climb name	Grade	Style	Partner(s)	Date	Crag name
Really Big Sur	7c  **	Lead dog	Jenni, Dave Pattinson	22/Jun/15	Ban-y-gor
Encore! Magnifique!	7b+  ***	Lead dog	Jenni	01/Jun/14	The Gap
Strawberry Jam	7b+  *	Lead RP	Jenni	15/Mar/14	Tirpentwys
Power Struggle	7b+	Lead dog	Tom Jordan, Jenni	19/Apr/15	Foxhole
Too Hot to Touch	7b  ***	Lead dog	Jenni, Dave Pattinson	22/Jun/15	Ban-y-gor
Pioneers of the Hypnotic Groove	7b  ***	Lead RP	Tom Jordan, Jenni	19/Apr/15	Foxhole
Nelson Mandela	7b  **	Lead RP	Jenni, Tom	30/May/15	Ban-y-gor
Just Too Hot	7b  **	Lead dog	Jenni	05/Apr/15	Ban-y-gor
Red River Rock	7b  **	Lead RP	Tom Jordan	31/Aug/15	Oxwich Bay Quarry
Wrecking Ball	7b  **	TR dog	Jenni	13/Jul/13	Rhossili Bay
Easier Said than Done	7b  **	Lead	Tom	???/2015	Wintour's Leap
The De-Regulators	7b  *	Lead dog	Jenni	27/Jun/15	Dinas Rock
Mein Kampf (Pitch 1)	7b  *	Lead dog	Jenni, Tom	07/Mar/15	Wintour's Leap
Trailblazer	7b	Lead dog	Jenni, Mark Glaister	???/2015	Taffs Well West
Propaganda	7a+  ***	Lead dog	Jenni	07/Jun/13	Cwmaman Main and Cwmaman West Quarries
The Raven	7a+  ***	TR dog	Jenni	14/Jul/13	Minchen Hole
Red With Rage	7a+  ***	Lead dog	Jenni, Mark Glaister	03/Sep/15	Oxwich Bay Quarry
Lyddite	7a+  **	Lead dog	Chaz Mc'Dee, Tom	11/Jul/15	Bargoed
Foxy Chicken	7a+  **	Lead rpt	Jenni, Dave Pattinson	11/Apr/15	Foxhole
Ducky Lucky	7a+  **	Lead rpt	Jenni, Dave Pattinson	11/Apr/15	Foxhole
Outspan	7a+  **	Lead dog	Dave Pattinson	13/Apr/14	Mountain Ash Quarry
Pastis On Ice	7a+  **	Lead dog	Dave Pattinson	13/Apr/14	Mountain Ash Quarry
Cointreau	7a+  **	Lead dog	Dave Pattinson	13/Apr/14	Mountain Ash Quarry
Spirit Of Missouri	7a+  **	Lead	Tom	???/2008	Taffs Well Main
Pleasant Valley Sunday	7a+  **	Lead dog	Jenni	01/Jun/14	The Gap
Pump Action	7a+  **	Lead RP	Tom	11/Oct/15	Watch House Crag
B'stard	7a+  *	Lead dnf	Tom	31/May/10	Ban-y-gor
Resin D'Etre	7a+  *	Lead dog	Tom	10/Oct/15	Oxwich Bay Quarry
Round Are Way ( 2 )	7a+  *	TR dog	Tom	05/Jul/09	The Darren (aka Lan Quarry)
Crocker's Ash	7a+	Lead dog	Jenni	01/Jul/15	Ban-y-gor
When Push Comes To Shove	7a+	Lead dnf	Tom	23/Sep/08	Dinas Rock
Sheer Heart Attack	7a+	Lead RP	Jenni, Mark Glaister	02/Aug/15	Quarry Mawr (Sirhowy)
Scream For Cream	7a+	Lead RP	Jenni, Mark Glaister	05/Sep/15	Taffs Well West
Sink Or Swim	7a+	Lead RP	Mark Glaister	04/Sep/15	Taffs Well West
Don't Lower the Tone	7a+	Lead RP	Dan P	29/Mar/12	Wintour's Leap
Sometimes I Think I'll Kill You	7a+	Lead dnf	Jenni, Dave Pattinson	16/Nov/13	Wyndcliffe Quarry
Tight Man's Tips	7a+	Lead RP	Jenni, Dave Pattinson	16/Nov/13	Wyndcliffe Quarry
Joy de Viva	7a  ***	Lead rpt	Jenni, Dave Pattinson	11/Apr/15	Foxhole
Geef Onze Fietsen Terug!	7a  **	Lead dog	Jenni	18/May/13	Barland Quarry
The Hooker	7a  **	Lead rpt	Jenni, Dave Pattinson	19/May/13	Foxhole
Heil Hitler	7a  **	Lead RP	Dan P	07/Aug/11	Wintour's Leap
Up a Gum Tree	7a  *	Lead RP	Jenni	22/Jun/15	Ban-y-gor
Blabba Mouth	7a  *	Lead dnf	Tom	31/May/10	Ban-y-gor
Craters of Mono	7a  *	Lead dog	Tom	31/May/10	Ban-y-gor
Sunstone (AKA The Mark of Zorro)	7a  *	Lead dog	Jenni	24/May/15	Quarry Mawr (Sirhowy)
Mawr, Mawr, Mawr	7a  *	Lead RP	Jenni, Tom	23/May/15	Quarry Mawr (Sirhowy)
Killer Queen	7a  *	Lead dog	Jenni	12/Jul/14	Quarry Mawr (Sirhowy)
Melting Man	7a  *	Lead dog	Tom	12/Oct/08	Taffs Well Main
Norman Normal	7a  *	Lead RP	Jenni, Mark Glaister	04/Aug/15	Taffs Well West
Palm	7a  *	Lead dnf	Jenni	01/Jan/13	Taffs Well West
Hail Mary	7a  *	Lead RP	Jenni	08/Jun/13	Tirpentwys
Wilkinson's Sword	7a  *	Lead dog	Jenni, Dave Pattinson	16/Nov/13	Wyndcliffe Quarry
Rob Roy	7a	Lead RP	Jenni	27/Jun/15	Dinas Rock
Marmalade Skies	7a	Lead rpt	Jenni, Dave Pattinson	11/Apr/15	Foxhole
Gott In Himmel	7a	Lead dnf	Jenni	20/Jul/14	Quarry Mawr (Sirhowy)
Strain Drain	7a	Lead dog	Tom	11/Oct/15	Watch House Crag
Ghengis Khan	6c+  ***	Lead O/S	Tom	24/Sep/08	Taffs Well Main
Supertramp	6c+  **	Lead dog	Tom	29/Jun/13	Tirpentwys
Shin Gi Tai	6c+  **	Lead dog	Jenni, Dave Pattinson	16/Nov/13	Wyndcliffe Quarry
Our Man In Bargoed	6c+  *	Lead RP	Chaz Mc'Dee, Mark Glaister, Tom	11/Jul/15	Bargoed
The Crimson King	6c+  *	Lead dog	Jenni	20/Jul/14	Quarry Mawr (Sirhowy)
Chicken Licken	6c+	Lead rpt	Jenni, Dave Pattinson	11/Apr/15	Foxhole
Enter the Darren	6c+	Lead dnf	Tom	05/Jul/09	The Darren (aka Lan Quarry)
Mr Whippy	6c+	Lead RP	Ross	25/Apr/11	Wyndcliffe Quarry
Kissin' the Pink	6c  ***	Lead RP	Tom	24/Sep/08	Oxwich Bay Quarry
Wij Zitten Nog In Een Sneeuwstorm	6c  **	TR dog	Jenni	18/May/13	Barland Quarry
Miss You	6c  **	Lead RP	Jenni	18/May/13	Barland Quarry
Duhkha	6c  *	Lead dog	Jenni	27/May/15	Ban-y-gor
Hostility Suite	6c  *	Lead RP	Jenni	20/Jul/14	Quarry Mawr (Sirhowy)
Clip Joint	6c  *	Lead RP	Tom	11/Oct/15	Watch House Crag
Diminishing Returns	6c  *	Lead dog	Jenni	09/Mar/14	Wyndcliffe Quarry
Call a Spade a Spade	6c	Lead O/S	Tom	23/Sep/08	Dinas Rock
Deus ex machina	6c	Lead β	Jenni, Mark Glaister	06/Sep/15	Navigation Quarry
East of Sweden	6b+  **	Lead dog	Jenni, Tom	30/May/15	Ban-y-gor
Strange Little Girl	6b+  **	Lead O/S	Jenni	12/Jul/14	Quarry Mawr (Sirhowy)
Violation of Trust	6b+  *	Lead RP	Jenni	05/Apr/15	Ban-y-gor
Totally Radish	6b+  *	Lead O/S	Tom	23/Sep/08	Dinas Rock
No Epoxy Au Oxley	6b+  *	Lead RP	Tom Jordan, Jenni	19/Apr/15	Foxhole
The Day The Sky Fell In	6b+  *	Lead O/S	Jenni, Dave Pattinson	11/Apr/15	Foxhole
Queens of the Stone Age	6b+  *	Lead O/S	Jenni, Mark Glaister	02/Aug/15	Quarry Mawr (Sirhowy)
Better In than Out	6b+  *	Lead O/S	Jenni, Dan P, Mark Glaister, Tom	23/Nov/13	Wyndcliffe Quarry
Slug Control	6b+	Lead rpt	Jenni	27/May/15	Ban-y-gor
Up For Grabs	6b+	Lead O/S	Chaz Mc'Dee, Tom	11/Jul/15	Bargoed
Raving Queen	6b+	Lead O/S	Jenni, Mark Glaister	02/Aug/15	Quarry Mawr (Sirhowy)
Balthazaar's Ball Sac Bulges Beholding Bouncing Bargoed Booties	6b  **	Lead RP	Chaz Mc'Dee, Tom	11/Jul/15	Bargoed
The Cragmeister	6b  **	Lead RP	Jenni	08/Jun/13	Tirpentwys
Cheesy Rider	6b  *	Lead RP	Jenni	27/Jun/15	Dinas Rock
The Deflated Dick-Head	6b  *	Lead O/S	Jenni	01/Feb/15	Dinas Rock
Lundy Boy	6b  *	Lead O/S	Tom	29/Jun/13	Tirpentwys
The tactless teacher	6b  *	Lead O/S	Tom	29/Jun/13	Tirpentwys
Flakes and Chips	6b  *	Lead O/S	Tom	29/Jun/13	Tirpentwys
Twisted logic	6b  *	Lead O/S	Tom	29/Jun/13	Tirpentwys
Finishing Touch	6b  *	Lead rpt	Jenni	09/Mar/14	Wyndcliffe Quarry
Lip Service	6b	Lead	Jenni	01/Jul/15	Ban-y-gor
Black Magic	6b	Lead β	Jenni, Mark Glaister	06/Sep/15	Navigation Quarry
Land Of The Dinosaurs	6b	Lead RP	Jenni	01/Jun/14	The Gap
you've had your chicks	6b	Lead O/S	Jenni, G Warner	25/Jul/15	Tirpentwys
Still Nice and Sleazy	6a+  **	Lead dnf	Dan P	29/Mar/12	Wintour's Leap
Stinking Of Fish	6a+  *	Lead O/S	Jenni	18/May/13	Barland Quarry
Mr Potato Head	6a+  *	Lead O/S	Jenni	01/Feb/15	Dinas Rock
D'ya Hear Ma Dear	6a+  *	Lead O/S	Tom	24/Sep/08	Taffs Well Main
Bluster	6a+  *	Lead O/S	Tom Jordan, Jenni, Dave Pattinson	01/Jun/14	The Gap
Fluster	6a+  *	Lead O/S	Tom Jordan, Jenni, Dave Pattinson	01/Jun/14	The Gap
Dinofever	6a+  *	Lead O/S	Jenni	08/Mar/14	Tintern Quarry
Polarization	6a+	Lead O/S	Jenni	05/Apr/15	Ban-y-gor
Beavers At Bargoed	6a+	Lead O/S	Chaz Mc'Dee, Tom	11/Jul/15	Bargoed
Slip Into The Queen	6a+	TR RP	Jenni, Mark Glaister	02/Aug/15	Quarry Mawr (Sirhowy)
Aedan's Arete	6a+	Lead dog	Jenni	20/Jul/14	Quarry Mawr (Sirhowy)
Mother of Pearl	6a+	Lead O/S	Jenni	08/Mar/14	Tintern Quarry
Dinomania	6a+	Lead O/S	Jenni	08/Mar/14	Tintern Quarry
Fledgling	6a+	Lead O/S	Jenni, G Warner	25/Jul/15	Tirpentwys
One Tooth Short of a Smile	6a+	Lead O/S	Jenni	09/Mar/14	Wyndcliffe Quarry
Groping For Jugs	6a  **	Lead O/S	Chaz Mc'Dee, Mark Glaister, Tom	11/Jul/15	Bargoed
A Poxy Queen	6a  *	Lead β	Jenni, Mark Glaister	02/Aug/15	Quarry Mawr (Sirhowy)
Leading Edge	6a  *	Lead O/S	Jenni	15/Mar/14	Tirpentwys
Mental Mantles	6a  *	Lead O/S	Jenni	15/Mar/14	Tirpentwys
Rocky	6a  *	Lead O/S	Jenni	08/Jun/13	Tirpentwys
Hey Mister	6a	Lead O/S	Jenni	04/Jun/13	Cwmaman Main and Cwmaman West Quarries
Buff The Happy Lamp	6a	Lead O/S	Jenni	04/Jun/13	Cwmaman Main and Cwmaman West Quarries
Crow	6a	Lead RP	Dave Pattinson	???/2006	Tintern Quarry
Crumlin at the seams	6a	TR	Jenni, G Warner	25/Jul/15	Tirpentwys
Crumlin at the edges	6a	Lead O/S	Jenni, G Warner	25/Jul/15	Tirpentwys
Same Old Story	6a	Lead O/S	Jenni	09/Mar/14	Wyndcliffe Quarry
Fromage Frais	5c	Lead O/S	Jenni	27/Jun/15	Dinas Rock
Little Queen	5c	Lead O/S	Jenni, Mark Glaister	02/Aug/15	Quarry Mawr (Sirhowy)
Pot Head	5a  **	Lead O/S	Jenni	01/Feb/15	Dinas Rock
Morning Winpenny	5a	Lead rpt	Jenni, Tom	30/May/15	Ban-y-gor
Morning Winpenny	5a	Lead rpt	Jenni	27/May/15	Ban-y-gor
Just a Mo	5a	Lead O/S	Jenni	08/Mar/14	Tintern Quarry
Ledge and Braces	5a	Lead O/S	Jenni, G Warner	25/Jul/15	Tirpentwys
Crumlin towards England	5a	TR	Jenni, G Warner	25/Jul/15	Tirpentwys
Shrew	5a	Lead O/S	Jenni	08/Jun/14	Tirpentwys
By deFault line	5a	Lead O/S	Jenni	08/Jun/14	Tirpentwys
Stranded No More	5a	Lead O/S	Jenni, Dave Pattinson	16/Nov/13	Wyndcliffe Quarry
The yolk's on  you	4c	Lead O/S	Jenni, G Warner	25/Jul/15	Tirpentwys
Paw Me	4c	Lead O/S	Jenni	08/Jun/14	Tirpentwys
Day Break	4a	Lead rpt	Jenni	27/May/15	Ban-y-gor
Puffed Daddy	4a	Lead O/S	Jenni	08/Mar/14	Tintern Quarry
Sea of Change	4a	Lead O/S	Dave Pattinson	???/2006	Tintern Quarry
Yank my Chain	4a	Lead O/S	Jenni	08/Jun/14	Tirpentwys

Chulilla - Enjoying getting roasted

It's been an odd summer, let's face it, it's not been rubbish, but we never got that 3 weeks of high pressure I was hoping for. Feeling the need for a proper baking Jen and I headed to Chulilla (for me, the 3rd time in 12 months!).

Late September was hot, 27 degrees, but thankfully the best climbing is in the full shade, and it made for lovely evenings on the balcony. Certainly made a change from the hard groundfrost back in Feb!

Las Lamentaciones, imposing from the balcony and best avoided in the summer heat!

Let me just say this. Chulilla is freakin' awesome.There's a lot more if you can O/S 7c comfortably, however plenty at 7a & 7b also, and probably the 'best' routes I have ever had the pleasure of climbing. We spent most of the time at Chorreras, which translates along the lines of watercourses... Tufas! and Sector Oasis. Chorerras in particular is an amazing crag, 60m high, covered in streaks and tufas, with over 10 full 40m stamina fest 7a-7b's. There's pretty much no point in stars at this place, it's more a matter of opinion, that was the best route I've ever climbed... no that was!

Wall climbing and hanging tufas high on Chorreras

Full on 40 meter pitches really do make a lot of UK sport look small, and it's daunting at first, but it soon gets less scary, and more fun.

Jen onsighting a monster 40m 6b+/c classic at Sector Oasis

As always, Chulilla was particularly full of interesting people. On the first day we met and climbed with Chris Sharma's 'Schedule Organizer', a chilled American dude called Jeff, and his wife, living in Siurana. A few days later we bumped in to Juan Carlos, a local who loves the climbing livestyle... it was this guy who inspired me to start resoling shoes! He was just as full of banter, crag advice and as encouraging as I remember from my trip with Chavwin last winter. It was great to show him my handywork and also to see his prototype full shoes in action, handmade & they look great.

Finally we bumped in to some Germans, who were great to hang out with, one's from Berlin. More on the to come.

Daniel enjoying the shade of Chorreras

On our rest day we headed over to Charco Azul, an amazing blue gorge which was great for a swim and a chill.....

El Charco Azul, great for a swim (or a DWS slackline, spot the red highline if you can!!)

Chulilla's answer to Chorro's Camino Del Ray.... Calmino Del Jen.

One final thing. We went in the 3rd week of September. Never do this!!! Everything in the whole area is pretty much closed (shops, restaurants, pubs)  3rd & 4th week of Sept. Luckily we were in self catering and got by just about fine! :-)

Here's the ticklist.

Name	Grade	Style	Crag name
Los Caminantes (P1)	7b **	Lead RP	Chulilla
Sendero luminoso L1	7a+ **	Lead RP	Chulilla
Camino de Leche	7a+	Lead RP	Chulilla
Pompas finas	7a+	Lead RP	Chulilla
Plan Z	7a ***	Lead O/S	Chulilla
Super furry animal	7a ***	Lead O/S	Chulilla
Chamarilero	6c+ ***	Lead β	Chulilla
Que hago jugando...	6c *	Lead β	Chulilla
Long Jong John	6b+ **	Lead RP	Chulilla
Nazgul	6b+	Lead RP	Chulilla
Magnetoresistencia	6b+ ***	Lead RP	Chulilla
Gargola (P1)	6b	Lead O/S	Chulilla
Los pagafantas	6a+	Lead rpt	Chulilla